Goodbye Awesome

June 17, 2010 (Day 30)

The time had finally come.  


Yes, my trip to South America was quickly coming to an end as we boarded our plane back to Canada. 

A bitter sweet moment.

Four weeks ago, we started our journey, not knowing what lied ahead of us but a few ideas of what we wanted to do, and so it began with visits to Cusco, the Amazon Rainforest, Machu Picchu, Puno, Lake Titicaca, Copacabana, La Paz, Death Road, the Salar de Uyuni, San Pedro de Atacama, Arica, Arequipa, and finally back up to Lima. And we survived!  It was an amazing trip filled with spectacular experiences that I will cherish for the rest of my life.

That being said, it was good to be coming back home.  Once we hit Arica, with all the major highlights of our trip done and over with, and all the amenities of modern society quickly returning into our everyday lives, I felt like it was time to come back home to family, friends, fresh air, lush green forests, and a bath tub.  Packing and unpacking a backpack almost everyday was starting to get a little old as well.

As you may have noticed, my posts for the latter part of the trip waned a bit. I apologize for that but I just wanted to get this done while my memories are still pretty fresh in my mind.  I had big plans of keeping a journal of my journeys but that quickly came to an end after I was still writing about Day 1 on Day 11.  Yes, I was more interested in taking in as much of the local sights and culture than making notes in my journal or heaven forbid, spend time documenting them in front of a computer.  I was on vacation after all, and I was going to enjoy every minute of it, as best I could.  If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to ask me.  You know how to reach me and there is always the Comments section below each blog post, where you can express your thoughts.  And if you want to keep track of my journeys in the future, you can always subscribe to my blog.

As for my next trip, who knows? 
I have a long list of places I'd love to visit and there's probably an even longer list of great places I don't even know about yet so we will see what happens...

Thanks for dropping by.

Countdown in Lima

June 16, 2010 (Day 29)


Last night, we walked down Calle de las Pizzas (Pizza Street) to find a place to eat a late dinner and sure enough, solicitors barraged us with their menus until we settled on a place to eat.  Such pesky soliciting tactics were overwhelming and quite frankly obnoxious, and tarnished the potentially great atmosphere of this out-of-the-way pedestrian mall.  We had enough of these experiences over the past month so I guess we were glad they would soon come to an end.

Yes, it was the last full day of our trip, and I was set on seeing downtown Lima.

With a population of close to 8.5 million, Lima is the largest city I've visited to date, and I wasn't about to let its less-than-appealing tourism reputation get in the way of seeing its downtown.  After taxiing to the historic center of Lima, which I have since learned is yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, we walked around the city core and took in the sights.

The World Cup was on and South Americans love their soccer so a big screen was set up in the main plaza so no one would miss a second of the action.

We concluded our visit of downtown Lima with a pleasant afternoon meal at a little restaurant just around the corner from the main plaza as we people-watched and enjoyed our last hours in South America together.

Looking for Love

June 15, 2010 (Day 28)

Once again, we had the option of busing or flying to our next destination, and considering a flight to Lima was only $59 USD (+ a few dollars for the airport tax) vs. spending 18-24 hours on a bus, we chose the Peruvian Airlines option, and soon found ourselves in the Peruvian capital. After taking the most expensive taxi ride of our trip (50 Soles) to our hostel in Miraflores, we were given a given ample advice by the hostel's owner, Francis, on what and where to go, see, and eat.  Oh yes, eat. Francis was a big fan of eating and provided many suggestions as to where we can find the best meals in town.  After countless suggestions that could have easily lasted us a couple of weeks' worth of breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and snacks, Francis outlined on his unique maps of Lima, the areas of the city we should not enter. Ummm.... excuse me Francis, what did you just say? What happens there? You don't want to know, he responded. He marked those areas with big X's and soon we were on our way out of the fortress.

Our hostel, Albergue Miraflores House, was located in the Lima suburb of Miraflores, which is supposedly a safe neighbourhood for tourists and thus is home to many hostels and American chain restaurants.  After lunch, my traveling companions headed for the nearby theatre to watch a movie while I spent the afternoon strolling through the streets of Miraflores and coming across many embassies, consulates, markets, stores, and banks.

Our days of basic South American living were definitely over as we hit the big city. This city had it all... from major movie theatres to 2-storey Pizza Huts and KFC's to ScotiaBanks on what felt like every corner.  If it weren't for the armed bank guards and palm trees, you would think you were in a Canadian city... well, almost.  There was a little thing called Spanish in there as well.

Going back to the guards, the money transporters (ie. the guys in the Brinks' trucks) were walking out of banks with their guns out and ready for anything.  No holster-holding guards here... they were ready to shoot in a split-seconds' notice.  Luckily, I did not encounter any trigger-happy guards, and safely made my way around the city.

After passing Air Canada's Peruvian head office, I found myself searching for love at the Parque del Amor (Love Park), which is nestled on the cliff's edge overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

The park sign self-proclaims itself as  an "Outstanding Park that shows the famous sculpture "El Beso" ("The Kiss") designed and sculpted by the artist Victor Delfin." 

"My shadow's the only one that walks beside me

My shallow heart's the only thing that's beating

Sometimes I wish someone out there will find me

'til then

I walk alone..."

- Green Day

The Shattering Glass Incident

June 14, 2010 (Day 27)

Since Arequipa is such a major tourist destination, I won't talk much about the city as you can easily find info elsewhere but I will say that I wish we had more time to explore this beautiful city and its surrounding area. With all the natural attractions, such as the Colca Canyon, el Misti Volcano, and hot springs in its vicinity, I could have easily spent at least a week in and around Arequipa, and probably not seen everything worth seeing.

But unfortunately, our time was limited, and we soon had to be on our way back to reality but before we did, we spent the day strolling the streets, markets, shops, plazas, and courtyards of Arequipa.

And then to finish off the day, we enjoyed some gelato at a little spot around the corner from the Plaza de Armas that didn't think that little shards of broken glass would interfere with one's gelato experience but let's not go into that incident right now.... 

Taxiing Across The Border

June 13 (Day 26) 

After two days of beachbumming around Arica, it was time to make our way slowly back up to Lima, but not without visiting Arequipa first.  But to do so, we had to get across the border into Peru first.  There are a few options available but apparently the easiest is to grab a collectivo taxi from the bus terminal, and cross the border to Tacna by cab.  From there, you have the option of bussing or flying to Arequipa.  Considering the flight to Arequipa was priced at $30 USD (plus a few dollars for an airport tax) on Peruvian Airlines and took less than a hour, we decided to "splurge" on air travel to save us the time and risks associated with bus travel. 


So there we were waiting for our taxi outside with the hostel staff who recommended the taxi+flight strategy to us, only to find out that they never done it, nor have they heard back from anyone who had done it. Ummm... is this the greatest idea then?  Hmm, they heard back from no one?  Not very reassuring when you're taking a taxi in unknown territories and crossing an international border.  That being said, the staff members were an Australian couple just working a few weeks in Arica before their planned train trip to Peru. But why were they choosing the train over the taxi+flight?  Before we could get an answer, our taxi arrived, and we were off to the Arica Bus Terminal.  Well, that's at least where the Australian told the driver to take us.  Sure enough, we stopped just outside the bus terminal and before you know it, there's a guy taking our backpacks out of the trunk, and offering us a ride across the border.  Ok, let's go with the flow.  We got into his car, and he asks for our passports.  By this point of the trip, we got used to pulling out our passports for every single little thing because it seemed like almost everyone wanted to check our ID when traveling by bus, train, boat, or plane.  So we handed over our passports, and he quickly scooted out of the car and into a nearby storefront.  Ummm... what just happened there?  There better be only one door out of that store.  Luckily, he came back with our passports and immigration forms already filled out with our information a few moments later. That was a relief!  

As we drove towards the border, we could see in the distance, miles upon miles of beaches and spectacular waves.  We hit the border and got out of the car to show our paperwork at two modern offices (one Chilean and one Peruvian), and we were soon on our way to Tacna Airport.

The whole cab ride took less than 2 hours and we arrived with plenty of time to lounge around and watch most of the Germany-Australia World Cup game.  Funny thing is as Steph walked through the security scanner, Germany scored their first goal, and well let's just say, scrutiny was very lax at that moment and the moments soon thereafter as I passed through the gate (as I later found out in the screening section at the airport in Arequipa)... oops!  I meant no harm!

After landing in Arequipa and being escorted to our hostel, we headed out to have a customized, right out of the cookbook, traditional Arequipan dinner at a restaurant overlooking the main square.

The area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it's hard to argue its inclusion on the list.

Lake Titicaca

June 2, 2010 (Day 15)

The main reason why we stayed in Puno was there was no direct bus from Cusco to Copacabana.  Honestly, I was totally indifferent on the whole Lake Titicaca portion of the trip, but Renée and Stephanie really wanted to go so I went along with it (especially since they went along with my Death Road itinerary inclusion with no objections, to me at least, and I wasn't feeling 100% the past few days).  I had come down with a bit of sinus congestion since Aguas Calientes, that was bothering me a bit, but with the cold and sinus pills I had packed as part of my first aid kit, I was good to go (12 hours at a time).  Those 12-hour pills really worked like clockwork.  The 12-hour mark would pass and almost immediately, I would be back to my runny nose and stuffed up feeling until I popped another pill. Those night-time pills really worked fast at dinnertime!  I really don't like taking drugs but I wasn't going to let a stupid cold get in the way of enjoying my trip. Nevertheless, the thought of spending a few relaxing days around Lake Titicaca was comforting.

The breakfast buffet at the hotel started at 6am so we headed downstairs early as we were scheduled to be picked up at 6:45 for our Lake Titicaca cruise according to the hotel receptionist.  6:45 came and sure enough, there was a woman in the front lobby ready to pick us up.  But here's the thing, we weren't sure if we were going on the cruise we paid for because there was no verification against a passenger list, and a couple of women we spoke to during the previous evening were supposedly going on the same trip, yet they weren't present.  The woman just asked if we were waiting for the Lake Titicaca cruise and off we went to the shuttle bus. As we soon learned, sometimes you just have to go with the flow in South America.  I don't think we ever really confirmed that we were part of the right tour group but in the end, I think we saw everything we were supposed to see, plus it appears as though the tour operators share their passengers for rides back to the mainland as though they were one big, happy family.

So what did we see?

Well, first, to the uninitiated, Lake Titicaca is located on the border of Peru and Bolivia. According to Wikipedia, it sits 3,812 m (2,500 ft) above sea level, making it one of the highest commercially navigable lakes in the world.  By volume of water, it is also the largest lake in South America.

The attraction that probably makes Lake Titicaca so popular with tourists is the floating islands, where the Uros people inhabit floating islands that they created out of the lake's reeds.

Isla Jacha Challwa was one of those floating islands and was the first stop of our cruise. 

We sat in a circle and listened to the presentation made by the island's residents, during which they demonstrated how they the created the island.

We then proceeded to visit one of their homes. It ended up that we were in the President's house.  It was a cozy, little hut made out of reeds with a single bed for the husband, wife, and their two happy kids.  They even showed off their portable television / stereo unit that was powered by the external solar panels  Even though their home was small, they were very proud of it, and It just goes to show you that you don't need much besides love to be happy. The couple then proceeded to dress us up in their clothing, and soon enough, there I was, dressed up as "President" of the Island for a few minutes. Hey folks, bow to your new leader. LOL.

The island's women then proceeded to sing us a couple of traditional songs that were nice to clap along to but then, they proceeded to sing "Row, row your boat" in English!  This apparently considerate gesture seemed really out of place and artificial to the point where my smile and clapping didn't feel genuine anymore as I was just trying to be polite, but then again, that's probably just me, as some of the other tourists seemed to really appreciate it.

It was at this point, where in combination with the little marketplace with the supposed "authentic island souvenirs that are only available here", made the island feel like it was more like it was just another tourist trap than a real cultural experience.  By the way, most of those "one-of-a-kind souvenirs" were then seen in almost every souvenir store in Copacabana, at much lower prices to boot.

We then proceeded to take a reed boat around the island during which the boat operator was proud to tell us that we were actually floating on empty Inca Cola plastic pop bottles, and not just reeds.  Talk about taking away from the experience!  Hey, at least, he was honest!

We then got back out on our little tour boat, and slowly made our way to Isla Taquile.  And when I say slow, I mean, really slow!  The cruise was supposed to end at 5pm and the captain was making sure we wouldn't get back a moment sooner. But whatever... it was a beautiful sunny day and we secured the best spots on the boat's rooftop.

We finally arrived at Taquile Island and made our way up the countless steps to the top of the island.

We passed the main square and continued our way to the other side of the island where we enjoyed lunch in a tranquil, agricultural setting with a spectacular view of the lake.  Ahh, this is the life!  If this island was still a prison like it was back in the Spanish colonial times, well then, go ahead and ship me off here for a life sentence!

After lunch, we proceeded to walk down this side of the island, and dipped our feet in Lake Titicaca before heading back onto the boat to sunbathe our way back to Puno.

In the evening, we ventured out to a lively pedestrian mall for dinner.  As we enjoyed dinner, a parade passed by our restaurant.  Apparently, it was a pep rally for a local high school soccer team. No matter what the reason or city, Peruvians sure like their parades.

Bus to Puno

June 1, 2010 (Day 14)

After arriving back in Cusco after our late evening train + bus trip from Aguas Calientes on the 31st, we caught a few hours of sleep at our hostel before getting up early in the morning to cab to a gas station near the airport, where we boarded an Inka Express tourist bus to Puno, our last major city before we crossed the border to Bolivia.

The bus departed at 7:30 am and made five stops along the way, providing us with a chance to stretch our legs and check out the local attractions.

Stop 1: Andahuaylillas is where we visited a colonial church, which is called the “Sixtine Chapel of America" for the quality of its artwork. Unfortunately, photographs are not permitted inside the church so I can't share with you the artwork found inside but I can say that there is an interesting mural of heaven and hell.

Even more impressive were the Pisonay (Coral Trees) growing in the main square in front of the church.

Stop 2:  Raqchi is an archeological site based around the remnants of the Wiracocha Temple.

Stop 3: Sicuani was the site of our roadside restaurant where we enjoyed a buffet lunch.

Stop 4:  La Raya at 4,335 meters above sea level was the highest point on this bus trip and provided a great view of the nearby mountains.

Stop 5:  Pukara was the site of a small museum dedicated to Inca ruins. Besides the creaky wooden floor of a nearby church, there was nothing too special to report here, and quite frankly, it was a stop we could have skipped.

We arrived at the Puno bus terminal around 6:00pm.  While waiting for our bags to to be unloaded, Renée and Steph observed a bag of live guinea pigs being tossed out of the bus cargo compartment.  Based on this account, the restaurant photos, and a number of other reasons, I decided to take a pass on the cuy option on restaurant menus along our journey.

We were picked up at the bus station by a member of the hotel staff and driven to our first (and only) actual hotel of the trip. Qelqatani Hotel was recommended and arranged by our hostel in Cusco, and yes, it was relatively nice with its fancy extras like a doorman, porters, shampoo, and a bath tub. But as nice as it looked and its price, it was a bit of a disappointment with its rusty bathwater and paper-thin walls.  That said, the breakfast buffet was comprehensive and satisfying.

Machu Picchu

May 31 (Day 13)

Boom, boom, boom!  There's a party in my room!  

Unfortuantely, there isn't. 

It's just before midnight and we wake up to what sounds like a marching band right next door.  But it's the middle of the night.  It must be some idiot downstairs blaring his stereo.  I get up and look out the window and sure enough, it's a bloody parade complete with a marching band and dancing women!  I must be dreaming.  I pinch myself, rub my eyes, look out the window again, and still see a parade circling the main plaza square just feet away from our hostel!

Don't these people know that the only reason people stay overnight in Aguas Calientes is to wake up extra early the next morning to catch the sunrise atop Machu Picchu?  Welcome to Aguas Calientes, where they parade day and night.

Back to bed as we're waking up at 4am to get in line for the bus to Machu Picchu. Yes, that's right. 4am!  We talked to quite a few people the day before, and there was consensus that if you wanted to catch one of the first set of buses to Machu Picchu, you'd have to get in line by 4:30am to have a chance.  

We purchased our bus tickets the day earlier at the kiosk, and good thing we did, because I don't think the wicket was open that early in the morning. If you're budgeting for your trip, here are the bus ticket prices to get you to the Machu Picchu Sanctuary entrance from Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Village).

So we waited in line until around 5:30am when they started loading up the buses, and it was then up the winding road to Machu Picchu.

Considering we didn't have a chance to hike the Inca Trail, I really wanted to climb Huayna Picchu (Wayna Picchu), which is the mountain rising over Machu Picchu.

In none of the literature I read about Machu Picchu was it clear where we could pick up tickets to climb Huayna Picchu.  All I knew was that they were available somewhere at the Sanctuary. It ended up not being an issue as we just lined up like everyone else at the Sanctuary's entrance and two officials just walked down the line and asked if we wanted to be part of the 7am or 10am group. There apparently is a larger demand for the seven o'clock admission but since we had the choice of either time slot, we chose the ten o'clock slot as there would be fewer tourists at Machu Picchu in the four hours leading up to 10am, than after returning from the summit.  The number of daily visitors allowed to enter Huayna Picchu is restricted to 400 so we considered ourselves lucky (and smart) to have received these coveted tickets without any difficulties besides having to wake up extra early.

After the gates to Machu Picchu opened at 6:00 am, we walked up the pathway and were greeted to the following spectacular view...

The moment had finally come.. we actually made it to Machu Picchu!  The sun was shining and it was neither too hot or too cold. Just perfect! You can read about the history of Machu Picchu elsewhere so I'll just post some photos for your viewing pleasure...

And the Inca Bridge...

To be quite honest, Machu Picchu seemed to be slightly smaller than what I was expecting.  That being said, it was still a magnificent sight to see and appreciate this historical site withstanding the test of time and in such great condition, despite all the earthquakes and torrential downpours it has encountered.  It's amazing how they used to build things to last with what is considered "primitive" technology.

Ten o'clock was quickly approaching so it was time to head to the gateway to Huayna Picchu, and make our way up the steep stairs hugging the edge of the mountain. Climbing the mountain was a test of determination and endurance as the altitude was showing its effects on people we passed on our way up.  This trail is definitely one you don't want to rush as the scenery is simply spectacular and the limited number of hand railings (in the form of steel cables bolted to the bedrock) makes climbing the narrow and steep stairs a bit dangerous as one wrong step or slip could result in a nasty fall.  Irregardless, the hike was definitely worth it and was undeniably, the highlight of the day as the hike and view of Machu Picchu and the surrounding mountains, canyons, and river below provided a surreal and an unforgettable experience.

The climb down the mountain was actually more difficult than the climb up as the steps are not only steep but also very small. They were barely the width of my foot so I had to walk sideways down a majority of the steps on the upper portion of the mountain or else I would have certainly fallen.

Now for some tips regarding your visit of Machu Picchu:

• Bring a small daypack to carry your water bottle, snacks, camera, batteries, sun block, shorts, and extra t-shirt. 
• Wear hiking shoes with good threads if you plan on hiking Huayna Picchu.
• A guide isn't necessary.  Stick around a spot long enough, and you'll hear guides talk about it in several different languages. The funny thing is that the guides sometimes contradict one another in their explanations.
• Get there early.  The tour groups arrive later in the day and they are pretty big.
• Don't be afraid to ask the Sanctuary's employees for assistance in taking photos or getting directions. They're really friendly and helpful..
• Don't be in a rush. You've come a long way to see this. Enjoy your surroundings!

So to conclude, there's a lot of hype surrounding Machu Picchu but based on my experiences, it's definitely warranted.  A trip to Peru would not be complete without a visit to this amazing archeological discovery.